EUROPEAN EXTREMITIES

In this article the author, coming from one European extremity to the other, tries to give an impression of the effect which Portugal has on visitors from colder climes
 

by

RICHARD D. LEWIS

FOR many centuries the continent of Europe has been the centre of the world stage. The Greek, Roman and western civilisations have been instrumental in writing the greater part of the history of the worId as we know it. Europeans opened up the continents of Africa, America and Australlasia and put them on the map of the world. Even in Asia – the only continent where European influence was not decisive – there are large areas which owe their present development mainly to British and Portuguese initiative.

Europe's dominance in world history is no accident. There are many factors involved – geographical, historical, ethnological and climatological – which combined to oblige Europe to play her role. It is a fascinating subject which can be discussed at Iength in articles other than this.

Europe might be seen as a prolongation of Asia to the west. The eastern face of Asia, running down from the Berling Straits through northeastern Siberia, China, lndochina and Malaya to Singapore, represents a Iand mass of astonishing length and substance. Turning west, we find that this land mass begins to decrease gradualIy as we traverse the Middle East and Russia. It narrows rapidly when Europe proper is reached, finally tapering off to a watery end a few miIes to the west of Lisbon.

The last few thousand years have witnessed the tendency of peoples to migrate towards the west. We can assume it was a selection of the more hardy and vigorous Asian tribes which eventually made the arduous journey through what now is Russia to explore little-known Europe beyond. The narrowing down of the continent ultimately threw these adveuturous peoples together more closely than the vast wastelands of Asia ever could have doe. The final full stop reached in the Iberian peninsula set the stage for a European melting-pot which was in a relatively short time to produce a blend of races and types which would exceed anything the world had seen in terms of energy and mobility.

Portugal, both on account of her geographical position and heI historical development, is essentially European. Whilst not so involved in European affairs as such central states as Germany and France, she nevertheless has a clear roIe to play as Europe's eye to the west and particullarly south-west. Anyone living in Portugal is constantIy aware of the nation's consciousness of her historical mission.

Prior to coming to Portugal, I Spent several years in a country which is / 112 / very far from the banks of the Tagus and yet is still Europe – at its other extremity. Just as Portugal is the westem outpost of Europe, it is clear that our continent must have an eastern outpost aIso. Somewhere, Asia comes to an end. Then you have Russia. After that you have Europe. And Europe begins in Finland.

I often woonder what picture the Portuguese have of this country, so different from their own, and in many ways so similar. There are no two western European countries so widely separated as Portuga!l and Finland. They are literally the two extremities of our continent. There is consequently little interchange of visitors between the two countries.

Finland is 4 times as large as Portugal, but has a population of only 4 million. Its capitall, Helsinki, is about half the size of Lisbon. Apart from Iceland, it is the most northerly country in the world, has 60.000 lakes, and over 70 percent of its total area is covered by forests. The people are of Finno-Ugrian stock, being in the main power fully-built, fair-haired and blue-eyed.

The Portuguesa visitor to Finland would be impressed by its western aspect. The result of centuries of annexation by Sweden and Russia is the emergence of a modern state with a strongly-marked individuality and a clear-cut western culture. The lake scenes, the saunas, the reindeer represent the perennnial charm of old Finland as it is sung in her rich folklore. The other side of the picture – the new ultra-modern Finland with her architecture and hospitaIs, factories, technical schools, conference halls, progressing industries and jet airliners reflects a new and more vigorous appeal of this eastern outpost of this western continent.

In 1962 many organized groups of Finnish tourists visited Portugal. Swedes, Danes, Germans and English are the northerners who most frequently are seen in Lisbon, but with the improvement of air communications and the shrinking of distances, Portugal is rapidly becoming accessible to even the furthest nordic peoples.

The climate, of course, is always the first topic of conversation, and for the sun-starved Finns, Swedes and English Portugal need have nothing further to offer for the first few days. Northerners, however, are avid readers, and one finds that the Finns and Swedes particuIarly have spent many of their long nights during the previous winter familiarizing themselves with many aspects of Portuguese life, history and culture. After three or four days in the sun, they are eager tu get about.

Here perhaps we touch upon Portugal's forte as a tourist country. There is an incredible amount to see in a small, compact area. Wherever the country is destitute of wealth, it is rich in history. Within a few hour's striking distance of Lisbon is the famous battlefield of Aljubarrota, where 6000 Portuguese infantry smashed the might of the Spanish army against unbelievable odds and established the most brilliant dynasty that Portugal was too have. Batalha monastery, one of the world's most attractive Gothic constructions, today marks the triumphal spot. Within a few miles of this birthplace of the Portuguese nation are Obidos, a magnificent example of a mediaevall walled town and favourite spot of Portugall,s monarchy – Fatima, of pilgrimage fama – Alcobaça with its beautifull Cistercian monastery where for Iong years the Bernardine monks experimented with agriculture and rulled the area which even to-day is prosperous on account of their efforts.

The Nordic peoples, with their lack of old buildings and the English, with their sense of history, are invaIiably fascinated by the abundance of Portugals structures from bygone days. Mafra, Evora and Santarem, again alI an easy day's excursion from the capitail, perhaps offer more in terms of interest to visitors from the north than they would for tourists from the southern European countries. Sintra, just outside Lisbon, has traditionally mesmerised theEnglish, while Finns, Swedes and Danes alike are intrigued by its fauna and air of unreality.

The guests from the other end of Europe find that Portuguese food rarely disagrees with their stomachs. The hot, dry cuisine, with its absence of oil, includes several interesting delicacies – excellent chicken and pork, fish soups on the Tagus, bean cakes at Torres Vedras, eel stew at Santarem, squid over the rival, baked rolls at Coimbra, good red, white and green / 113 / wine everywhere. The variety is certainly greater than in the northern countries and most northerners, after a certain initial timidity, take full advantage of it.

Finally, one must not forget that the city of Lisbon, one of the most beautiful and individual of southern European cities, is in itseIf a spectacle in northern eyes. Its warm air, bright lights, breath-taking panoramas and lively inhabitants are a constant entertainment for visitors from duller and colder cities. For many northerners it is a pleasure just to walk down a Lisbon street wearing a coloured shirt. Or to sit at a table outside on the pavement on the Avenida de Liberdade and sip a port and watch the crowds go by. To sit in the sun when they feeI like it and have a swim when they feel like it and take a drink when they want to are luxuries to which they are not accustomed at home. They are such simple things, which Italians, Spaniards and Portuguese take for granted, and yet they constitute a great attraction for the northern visitor.