PHOTO 1
The building where “Casa
do Alentejo”is now, probably a construction from the end of the 17th
century, underwent a huge transformation at the beginning of the 20th
century.
The palace was constructed
"extra-muros" (outside the fortress walls), next to the "Portas de Santo
Antão" which were part of the "Fernandine wall" (1373), whose walls
served to form the south and east façades of this palace.
In the
middle of the 15th century, there existed, on this site, a
pigsty, then a public slaughterhouse “where the cattle was killed”, a
tannery, and finally the place “where one left packs of animals found in
the streets”.
In 1919, the “Magestic
Club” took possession of this place. The historian Luís Pastor de Macedo,
a passionate for Lisbon, reported it this way: “Who could imagine then,
that on those lilac and blue nights, dressed in pink or green, there
once were pigs in this very spot”.
More recently, there
existed a high school, maybe
/ p. 22 /
the first one in Lisbon and, at the time of its transformation into a
Casino, there was established "A Liquidadora", a warehouse of furniture
and art-objects.
Later,
“Magestic Club” adopted the name of “Monumental Club”, which remained
until 1928, although without its luxurious gambling rooms.
PHOTO 2
In 1932, it was rented to
the "Grémio Alentejano", which later became the "Casa do Alentejo".
The interior dates from
its transformation into a casino.
The transformation project
(or "appropriation project" as the author calls it), signed by António
Rodrigues da Silva Júnior, one of the most distinguished architects of
his time, was approved by the City Hall in 1917. Its opening would be in
1919.
This transformation was a
gigantic task, of remarkable quality and celerity
even
seen from our time. It
mobilized, under the direction of the Architect Silva Júnior, no less
than three master builders (who formed a construction company to the
effect), and dozens of artists and craftsmen. As soon as the management
of the Club granted all the facilities, Silva Júnior gathered the
leading
/ p. 23 /
artists of the time, as well as painters such as Júlio
Silva, Benvindo Ceia, Domingos Costa and José Bazalisa, and also
specialists of "azulejos" (glazed-tile art) such as the master Jorge
Colaço.
PHOTO 3
Together with more than a
dozen sub-contractors, he started this undertaking.
The façade,
(Photo 1)
which has undergone minor changes, gives us a good idea of how simple
the original construction was. Although we do not know its initial form,
probably only the two first floors have changed; that is to say, the
small rooms of the ground floor, the mezzanine and the main entrance.
Above the central window
in the cornice of the main entrance, can be found the family crests of
the first incumbents: Miguel Paes de Amaral and Meneses Quifel Barbarino.
The old entrance was
situated on the Travessa de S. Luis, which passed under the building,
emerging onto an open-air courtyard containing the stables ("The Arabian
Courtyard").
|
There probably didn´t exist any entrance to the recent Rua das Portas de
Santo Antão.
Comparing with its interior, the exterior is very discreet,
not withstanding the fact that, at
/ p. 24 /
the time, there were plans
for a lift so that the Casino's clientele would be able to avoid the
tiring steps.
This project was abandoned
in favour of a "vast marble staircase"; for constructing the lift, it
would have meant the demolishing of an extremely old five-meter thick
wall. This wall was clearly part of the Fernandine Wall, and possibly a
part of the "Gate of Santo Antão". |
PHOTO 4 |
The fragments of the south
wall (containing the staircase and the corridor), and the east part of
the wall encircling the Palace are still visible. At the top of the East
fragment stood a tower, which probably made up a portion of the tile
room (of the 17th and 18th centuries). Even
now, a water tank
still exists in the corner formed by these two portions of the wall.
We begin our visit by
passing through the main entrance on the Rua das Portas de Santo Antão
(Photo 2).
At the top of the
staircase, "headed by an Arabian decorated glass door, attended by an
impeccably dressed footman, conjuring up visions of the Thousand and One
Nights, we then
enter the richly decorated central courtyard,
reminiscent of pure Moorish-Hispanic (Photo 3). It was thus that on the
day of its inauguration the "Arquitectura Portuguesa" described the
courtyard, which even today has a surprising effect upon all those
entering it for the first time.
PHOTO 5
Where
once there were low flat arches of stone,
arches
now spring up,
arches raised with plaster fluting supported on columns of marbled
plaster.
All the
rest of the decoration is in plaster. Although the paint has been
degraded by time, it is still possible to distinguish seven different
tones.
The furniture of this
Grand Hall is made of wood and tooled leather and in shades that
perfectly harmonize with the setting; a care for harmonization that one
also find in the other rooms.
It is a point worth
noticing in other locations throughout, that the furniture was expressly
conceived and rigorously chosen to harmonize with the decoration.
Where, in bygone days, there
once stood the stables, there
is
now the luxurious "ladies
toilet rooms" in Louis XV style, together with a men's hairdressing
salon (now a reading room) decorated with paintings by José
Ferreira Bazalisa.
FOTO 6
On the
same floor, we can
find
/ p. 25 /
the administrative offices. There
is also
a series of little rooms, at the time called "boudoirs",
some
of which have been decorated in art-nouveau style.
To gain access to the
upper floor, using a staircase that already existed in the palace,
Architect Júlio Silva,
full of imagination, recreated a
setting with "sumptuous effects in a strictly oriental style". Having
only a limited space at his disposal, he totally eliminated an exterior
wall, supported the large opening with two green plaster columns and
projected onto the top of an interior courtyard a wide landing, which
opens onto three large decorated-glass windows.
It is
there that the Arabian style furniture, inlaid with nacre, is displayed. The panelling
also bears inscriptions in Arab and some
friezes in Hispanic Arab style.
The hall on the second
floor (Photo 4) provides a new surprise. We suddenly abandon the Moorish
style and pass into the neo-Doric, which can be noticed, on the capitals
of the columns and on the walls decorated with friezes of female heads.
Its designer was the painter Júlio Silva.
At the time of the
inauguration, there was a plaster pedestal in this room,
decorated with
bronze inlays of the architect Silva Júnior
himself (Photo 5).
To the
left of this wall, we enter the largest salon in the house: the Louis
XVI or “Dining Room” built obtained by demolishing several rooms and a
service staircase.
To obtain the effect of large rococo windows
without altering their embrasures, Silva Júnior
shows
his genius, once more.
He achieved the transformation by means of double glass-filled
doors to hide the exterior and a profusion of mirrors and well-placed
decorative motifs (Photo 6).
On the ceiling, exactly
above the centre of the room, we can notice a large “fresco” by Benvindo
Ceia, who was responsible for all the decorative painting in the room.
|
At the far end, and
serving as a separation between this room and the gambling room,
there
is a
scene, flanked by allegorical figures,
a
work
by the sculptor José Isidoro
Neto. OriginalIy this scene did not have the same form as today; it
nowadays provides the means of access to the two rooms, which it
separates.
A
canvas by Júlio Silva can be seen in the little entrance hall to the bar
at the side of the main façade.
Then
we enter the gambling room, a smaller space and completely decorated
with motifs depicting gambling;
this constituted the
heart of the casino (roulette and other classic games of chance).
|
FOTO 7 |
The decoration is "in a
free-style, a neo-renaissance /…/ which
tries
to emancipate itself from the formulas, conventions and prejudices of
other epochs".
Another painter of that
period, Domingos Costa, carried out all the oil paintings, including
that on the ceiling representing “the fortune”.
FOTO 8
The rooms situated to the
right of the hall provide further surprise. The
architect abandons the
styles he was using to emphasize the sumptuousness of the previous rooms
and chooses instead the austerity of the "medieval and Gothic style".
After the walnut screen, which separates it from the hall, one reaches
the reading or waiting room, on whose panelling, also in walnut, we find
a tile frieze by Jorge Colaço, illustrating allegorical songs from the "Lusiadas"
by Luis de Camões (Photo 7).
Next to this room, and
splitting up the windows giving onto the "Arabian Courtyard", there was,
at the time, a room for "bridge and other games of chance" decorated with
tiles, by the same artist, representing scenes of "the fair of Santa Eulália", in the form of a remarkable panel of naturalist inspiration
which is,
no
doubt, one of the most successful works of the great
master of the "azulejo" (glazed-tile).
The chandeliers and the
rest of the furniture were custom-designed by the Architect Guilherme
Rebelo de Andrade.
The adjacent room,
containing tiles of the 17th and 18th centuries, was a courtyard of the
old palace
whose roofing was erected in the nineteen-forties.
In the hall, next to the
reading room, we can see "art nouveau" friezes with subjects relating to
card games; the work being,
probably,
by Jorge Colaço (Photo
8).
This hall gives access to
the men's toilets and to the "billiard room" of the time, as well as to
a small room. In the billiard room, "medieval" in style, the same artist
has depicted hunting scenes, a Bullfight, etc., employing the same
techniques used
in the earlier-mentioned panels (Photo 9).
PHOTO 9
|