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EXPLANATION OF THE ILLUSTRATIONS
1 – THE TAGUS ESTUARY – (3 miles long and 1 wide) is here shown in a
light that does it no more than justice, though no more than a picture
can do to a real thing. It is not difficult to imagine that great
Discoverers should have once set out from here.
2 – LISBON, WHARF OF EUROPE. – A situation of
unsurpassable beauty by a great river, a harbor which can contain all
the joint fleets of the world.
3 – PRAÇA DO COMÉRCIO (formerly TERREIRO DO PAÇO). – THE EQUESTRIAN
STATUE OF KING JOSÉ, made by Machado de Castro, THE TRIUMPHAL ARCH and
the section of the ARCADES (right) give some idea of the majesty of the
square. The Arch is the entrance to Rua Augusta.
4 – AN OLD STREET, containing the CASA DOS BICOS (House of Points),
built in the sixteenth century. This house belonged to the family of
Albuquerque, the great empire-builder, and thus somehow evokes the
Portuguese discoveries and conquests.
5 – RUA DE SÃO PAULO, passing under
RUA DO ALECRIM.
This gives a flagrant idea of the hilly nature of the city, and the
«chiaro-oscuro» some idea of the bright light.
6 – RIBEIRA NOVA WHARF. – This wharf, apart from the picturesqueness of
all wharfs, has one wholly its own, given it by the fishermen and
fisherwomen, whose curious «cries» are the joy of Lisbon streets.
7 – RUA DA JUDIARIA (Jewry
Street).
In the labyrinth of Alfama, once the fashionable suburb of Gothic
Lisbon, there are still suggestive survivals of an old Jewish quarter.
8 – OLD LISBON, in the archaic setting of its narrow streets and its
fifteenth and sixteenth century ruins, reveals, in this quaint comer,
what is distinctly a medieval aspect.
9 – ALFAMA. – Tortuous and steep paths, between houses where the sun
never enters. Pointed corners, queer arches and strange peepholes.
Sordid and picturesque. Hovels where the fado, the sad popular song,
reigns supreme.
10 – MIRADOURO DE SANTA LUZIA, the Santa Luzia belvedere, is one of the
many in Lisbon. From it the view is astonishing, covering part of the
old city and the wide spaces of the river till far away.
11 – PANORAMA covering all the lower part of the
city, rebuilt by Pombal after the great earthquake in 1755, and to this
day, with its straight regular streets, the centre of Lisbon and of its
life.
12 – CHIADO, the fashionable centre of the city, which it has long been
and still is, in spite of the expansion of Lisbon in many directions.
13 – PRAÇA DO MUNICÍPIO, meaning Town Hall
Square, containing the Town Hall itself (CÂMARA MUNICIPAL), a building
erected in a sober and simple style, and, in the middle the PELOURINHO –
a punishment column more or less corresponding to the English stocks –
in this case, a curious eighteenth century piece, worked spirally in a
single stone. The towers of the SÉ (the Lisbon Cathedral) are seen
in the background.
14 – ROSSIO or PRAÇA DE DOM PEDRO IV. – This square is the heart of
Lisbon. The Statue of Pedro IV, the ornamental ponds and the Ionian
façade of the National Theatre (at the bottom) give it character and
artistic interest.
15 – PRAÇA DOS RESTAURADORES. – This, one of the most important Lisbon
squares, contains the monument to the «restorers» of Portuguese
independence in 1640, when the sixty years of Spanish dominion were put
an end to. The square opens out North into the AVENIDA DA LIBERDADE.
16 – AVENIDA DA LIBERDADE. – This shows part of the large avenue, which
is inset with gardens and lined by several lines of trees. It connects
PRAÇA DOS RESTAURADORES with PRAÇA MARQUÊS DE POMBAL and is considered
one of the
finest avenues in the world. / 16 /
17 – SÃO PEDRO DE ALCÂNTARA is another of the
celebrated Lisbon belvederes or panoramic points. All the Eastern side
of the city and part of the river are covered from there.
18 – LARGO DA ESTRELA. – This square, out of which the Gardens open, is,
in its way, one of the finest in Lisbon. It is dominated by the great
church, BASÍLlCA DA ESTRELA, built in what is called the Mafra style.
From the dome of the church an astonishing panorama can be seen.
19 – JARDIM DA ESTRELA. – These gardens are one of the finest and most
popular in Lisbon. They crown one of the hills and are a haven of quiet
and natural beauty.
20 – AVENIDA DA REPÚBLlCA. – This wide and long avenue is one of what
are called the «New Avenues», being part of the comparatively recent
expansion of the city outside its old limits. It has many fine buildings
and is typical of
what the «new Lisbon» looks like.
21 – ESTRADA DE BENFICA (Benfica Road).
This is a typical road leading out of Lisbon, though inside the city
barriers. It presents the curious alternation of modern buildings with
picturesque old palaces, such as that of Palhavã, which has striking
historic connections.
22 – PALHAVÃ PARK. – This is a fine specimen of the type of park
pertaining to a palace. Its quiet shades and cool corners evoke the past
and especially the eighteenth century, «the last of the quiet
centuries».
23 – FRONTEIRA PALACE. – This palace dates from the seventeenth century
and is a fine specimen of Renaissance style. The illustration shows the
Galeria dos Reis (Gallery of Kings), with its admirable design and its
Old Portuguese glazed tiles.
24 – BULL-RING. – The bull-fight ring, set in the New Avenues, is built
in the Moorish style and seats 8,500 people; its size can therefore be
imagined, considering, above all, that the arena itself has a radius of
67 feet. It is worth visiting, in a country where bull-fights, stripped
of the cruelty of the Spanish ones, are the traditional popular
amusement.

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